Hi everyone, here’s my experience and some photos of installing the 110 AUX tank from LRA (Long Range Automotive) into my ‘05 5.7 WH.
When I was considering the tank, I found a few discussions about it but not many photos, so I hope this post can give future buyers a bit more confidence about what you’re getting.
LRA were great to deal with, the kit was well packed (wrapped & strapped on a skid) and arrived overnight.
Everything you need to complete the install is included in the kit, is well designed and fits together nicely, and the instructions are actually correct.
It’s true that it doesn’t affect departure angle at all (I was always skeptical about that), and it took 115L the first time I filled it up.
It took me a lazy 8 hours to install by myself.
Which included cleaning out the area underneath and a few sprays of penetrol.
The last thing you want while connecting fuel hoses is dirt and crap falling down on you, and this is the only opportunity you’ll get, so I recon a good balst of your favourite rust inhibitor/sealer is a good idea.
I also found that the penetrol coating protected the OEM paint & tank from dings while I was trying to lift it up.
I lifted the tank (around 35-40kg’s) up using a transmission jack (which was slightly too short) and a couple of ratchet-straps to pull it right up into place.
Here it is installed;
It sits well up inside the sub-frame (I guess that’s what it’s called?) rails.
There’s just enough room around it to poke tools, wash, spray fish-oil or penetrol or whatever you wanna do.
I don’t know what’s already on the market, but there should be enough room to mount a skid-plate to fully protect the tank if you’re concerned.
Also, I have no proof at all, but I recon with the tank filling up that void, air should flow under the car a bit more smoothly, so I wouldn’t be surprised if level-ground fuel efficiency improves a bit.
Here’s the twin-filler;
Main tank is towards the front, and AUX is towards the rear. The pump nozzle fits in just fine.
The AUX tank has it’s fast-fill breather routed directly to the top of the neck (not into the vapor canister), so it’s more fumey when filling than the main tank.
My stock (quarter-turn) cap doesn’t fit the new filler unfortunately.
And here’s the switch/gauge;
It’s a bit too big (20mm diameter) to fit into one of the vacant switch bezels, so I’ve just tied it there until I figure out a nice solution.
There’s only 6 holes that need to be drilled/cut;
One hole is enlarged to 10.5mm on the triangular brace which supports the panhard bar;
This is where the front bracket for the tank goes.
Four holes (two on each side) are continued into the outside wall of the subframe square-sections; This is where the rear bracket for the tank goes. Spacers are provided in the kit to prevent the rails being squashed.
One 38mm hole is drilled/cut through the inside wall of the body-rail square section; There is already a corresponding hole on the outside wall, and a plastic loom clip marks the spot to cut.
The fast-fill breather for the AUX tank passes through here.
The rear bracket for the tank bolts to the subframe rails, and leaves enough room behind it (between the towbar mount & the bracket) to access top of the bracket (for installing the nuts/bolts), and all the tow-bar & wiring for fog lights, etc; Most descriptions I’ve read of the tank state that it requires an OEM tow-bar to be installed.
My Mopar tow-bar receiver is a small solid unit bolted directly to the subframe.
The subframe (I’m not sure if that’s the correct name, but it’s what I’m calling it) is a single welded piece supporting the panhard bar, vapor canister, muffler and a few little bits & pieces.
I guess the lateral beam (which my tow-bar is bolted to) might be excluded from the part if the tow-bar factory option isn’t added… but that seems like a pretty extreme thing to do.
This is what my subframe/tow-bar area looked like before the tank bracket was installed;
It’d be great if someone without a factory tow-bar could compare.
Some things I’d do differently if I did it again… and things to watch out for;
- I’d try to join the AUX fast-fill breather into the main tank’s fast-fill breather, which then runs into the vapor canister.
This would avoid cutting the hole through the body-rail. I think(?) the vapor collection system would still be triggered appropriately when filling the AUX tank via the negative pressure created in the filler neck.
- I’d try some wizardry to cut & join my OEM filler cap/thread section onto the twin filler neck supplied with the kit, so I could use the original cap (and save having an extra key.). This will be hard since the twin-filler is a brass alloy and the OEM is stainless haha.
- I’d push the AUX tank fill pipe 90 degree bend right up as high as it can go, before tightening the clamp which is a bitch to access once the tank is up; When the tank is installed, that fill pipe sits just a hair below the top edge of that opening.
- I’d weld studs onto the two relocation brakets provided to space out the vapor canister. Sorry no photo of this, but just image two U-shaped brackets. Not hard to mount with bolts & nuts, but it would’ve been real tidy with studs welded to the inside.
– Also ensure that you install the top bracket facing with the U up the “right way”, so that the opening is at the top to clear a bolt head.
- I’d make a new bracket for the fuel pump with steel plate, mounted off two of the bolts for the front tank bracket and extending towards the LHS, positioning the pump up high above the main tank fuel lines. I achieved the same thing with the supplied bracket, but only being fixed in 1 corner is a bit scary (even though the pump is very small.). I plan to brace it with a strip of steel when I can be bothered.
Ok that’s it!
Over-all I’m happy with the kit, it’s well made and looks like it will perform great for a long time.
PS, I have no relationship or association with LRA, just a happy customer and all that.
PPS; This was originally just posted on the AJOR forums, but I’ve replicated it here in-case another crash causes any posts to be lost.