Hi guys, I just finished installing the airflow snorkel onto my WH hemi, so here’s a run-down for anyone thinking about doing it.
Short answer; do it.
The down-sides that I was prepared turned out to be wrong…
Doesn’t look nearly as bad in real-life as I thought it would (judging by photos I’d seen), doesn’t block vision as much as I expected, doesn’t increase intake noise (just a cool subtle swoosh sound when accelerating from idle ), and wasn’t quite as hard to install as I expected.
There were a couple of issues…
Firstly some of the parts supplied didn’t fit perfectly with my air-box.
I bought it off eBay, sold as suitable for all WH engines (3.0 CRD, 4.7 and 5.7.), and the kit parts and instructions all matched everything that I’d seen over the net…
BUT, there were definitely some incompatibilities with my air-box, which I am sure is the stock-standard setup for any MY2006 5.7.
The snorkel body has an ‘outlet’ stub, which a short length of flexible hose slips over, and connects an ‘inlet’ stub (which is added as part of the install) on the air-box.
The stub on the snorkel body is far too long (I think), and sits at about 45 degrees towards the ground, which leaves a very tight corner for the flexible hose to run to the air-box.
I was convinced that I had something positioned wrong; but definitely not, the snorkel was sitting perfectly flush on the body panel and windscreen pillar, and the air-box was in it’s stock position (which is basically the only position possible for it.).
So I cut the stub on the snorkel body shorter, giving the flexible hose more length to run a smoother curve into the air-box. I remove around ~20cm, which is heaps I think, and I would’ve expected it to be mentioned in the instructions if it was an official step of the install.
Unfortunately this leaves the flexible hose running past a freshly-cut panel, so I’ll need to clean up the panel edges with some rubber hose and secure the hose so it can’t rub.
The other air-box issue is that the kit includes a round cap (which they call a “plug”… semantics haha.), to seal off the stock cold-air-intake at the front of the airbox (you remove the intake which runs from behind the headlight.).
Apparently this intake is circular on the CRD, but on my Hemi it’s a crazy shape, obviously to maximise air-flow through that tight space.
It’s easy enough to access with the air-box in-place, so I’ve just blocked it with race-tape for now, while I use the stock cold-air-intake snorkel part (which fits inside the crazy shape) to fashion a plug to seal it properly.
The second main issue I had, was basically just fitting the snorkel body onto the panel.
The kit includes a template which is taped into position over the panel, and used as a guide to mark all the holes. It seems to be pretty accurate, definitely ‘good enough’ if you take care.
So you’re left with a series of 10mm holes in the panel (plus the 90mm hole for the snorkel outlet lol.).
Then you’re supposed to thread ~25mm x ~4mm studs into a series of threads moulded into the snorkel body.
Then, you can fit the snorkel by lining up the studs with the 10mm holes… fat chance I say.
Even if you’re a panel-template centre-punching God, the threads moulded into snorkel weren’t perfectly straight in my case (and I doubt that they ever could be, since the panel is contoured). So if one of the threads is even 5 degrees out, with 7 studs protruding ~20mm, it’s very unlikely that you’d get all of them through their 10mm holes without a lot of arsing about.
And since you need to trial-fit the snorkel to establish the pillar bracket location, that would be a real PITA.
More importantly, I can’t see how you could ever do it without scratching some of the zinc primer that you sealed the exposed steel with.
I ended up only threading 2 of the studs (the forward & reward most ones.) into the snorkel, and did the trial & final fit like that. Then I threaded 3 of the remaining studs from inside the panel once the snorkel was fitted.
Unfortunately I couldn’t get 2 of the studs to thread, the snorkel is very secure with only 5 of them, and I was working in a rush at night so I gave up LOL.
I’ll do something about it next time I have the guard exposed.
That’s about it.
… if you’ve been thinking of getting one, I’d strongly suggest taking the time and doing it yourself. In my opinion there’s a lot of things along the way that a workshop could ignore, or blow their budget on and not do a decent job.
Quick list of advice if I was gunna do it again;
- Remove the short cold-air-intake snorkel in advance, and use it to fashion a ‘plug’ to block the intake once you’re ready to do the install. At-least you can still drive the car a bit while doing that.
– I’m going to contact Airflow to see if they already have a plug fabricated for that, maybe I just got the wrong kit (although I’ve never seen it in any photos on the net.).
- Use a reciprocating saw to cut the inner panels (that’s what I used, heeaps easier than trying to get a die grinder in their IMO.).
- Allow more time than you’d expect to smooth down the freshly cut panels; there’s a few ‘high risk’ rust areas created IMO.
- Seal any exposed steel with a high-zinc primer of course!
- Have a lot of good quality mastic (I used sikaflex 227) handy.
- Have a hell of a lot of rubber gloves ready for the mastic.
- Run rubber edging (I just use ~4mm rubber hose split length-wise) along all cut panels (after sealing with primer), using the mastic to glue it down, before installing the snorkel or air-box haha.
– I wish I’d done that, since now I definitely want to protect all the edges and will have a pain of a time doing it with everything in-place.
- After fitting the snorkel in it’s final position, cut the outlet stub (with a reciprocating saw from under the guard), keeping it as long as possible while giving the flexible hose a smooth run to the air-box.
– I guess this is a compromise between a minimising turns in the path and minimising the length of flexible hose, since it creates more turbulance than the smooth moulded plastic.
- Protected all engine intake-side (ie, everything after the air-filter) components from dust…
– Wash everything like crazy while it’s all still together, to avoid dust or dirt falling somewhere when you take things apart.
– Then immediately after removing everything, I’d seal them in big zip-lock bags… maybe a bit paranoid, but I wasted a bit of time being OCD with the air-gun making sure there wasn’t a spec of anything after the air-filter haha.
- Considering that inevitably some of the zinc primer will be scratched off from the holes while installing the studs, I squished a bit of mastic into each hole/thread before threading the washer & nut on. It should push through the hole a fair-bit once the nut is tightened, and it’ll help protect the steel, disperse vibration (rather than relying on the stud/nut and friction) and lock the nuts on.
Ok sorry for the long rant, but this is the type of stuff I was hoping to read before I took the plunge, so hopefully it can help someone else.
Now here’s some bad photos…
PS; This was originally just posted on the AJOR forums, but I’ve replicated it here in-case another crash causes any posts to be lost.